A POST IN WHICH THE WORD "PRECIOUS" IS USED AND ABUSED REPEATEDLY: Trio Atelier, the Evanston culinary mainstay that launched a thousand acutely precious Chicago restaurants, will be closing in late February. Owner Henry Adaniya is contemplating fulfilling his dream of opening a hot dog stand on the beach in Hawaii. Mahalo!
In other news of the violently precious, 29-year-old chef Paul Liebrandt's new endeavor, Gilt, (which took over La Cirque 2000's old space in the New York Palace, for those who are interested in such minutiae) today received two stars from the NYT. Frank Bruni says that "Mr. Liebrandt may use more ingredients per square inch than any chef in Manhattan." In a city laden with such chefs as Wylie Dufresne and Bobby Flay, those are strong words. (For the non-New Yorkers: think Philadelphia's Lacroix, Chicago's Tru, and so forth.)
I will confess to being intrigued, particularly when upon contemplating such yummies as langoustine tortellini in a golden squash velouté and lobster infused with vanilla on a cauliflower purée. But then there's the fact that the menu is divided between "classical" and "modern." And the his-and-hers olive oils to accompany the wasabi/green apple sorbet. Oh, my precious preciousness.
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